Three Walks. Three Continents. One Body Learning to Listen.
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I grew up in Northern Ontario in the mid 1970's to the early 1990's, a child of the outdoors pre-technology. I'd leave the house in the morning and didn't come home until night. Sometimes, I'd sleep over at friends and I didn't tell my mom where I was. She knew I'd be home eventually. Every summer I'd set up my tent in the farthest corner of my huge backyard, so I couldn't see the house. I'd live in that tent for 4 months every year, only going inside to sneak food or to have the occasional bath... I swam so much in the fresh lakes I was clean enough. Times were different then and parenting was not like it is now. My earliest memories are of being outside riding my bike through every street and trail I could find, going swimming alone or finding new friends to spend the day with. Then later on in my teens, when the bike became uncool, I walked everywhere, from my house to my friends, the lakes or the little strip mall in town, taking short cuts through the bush trails, moving in my small world as a matter of necessity rather than intention. I'd walk for miles every day. I did not yet know that walking could be its own destination and I did not yet understand that being in nature, truly being in it and not just passing through, was something one could choose deliberately, as an act of self-renewal.
That understanding came later, in my
forties, through an invitation that changed the direction of my life. I was
asked to climb Mount Kilimanjaro to raise awareness of ovarian cancer, a
disease I have survived since the age of ten. I said yes before I fully
understood what I had agreed to. What followed was months of training, a
transformation of my body, and the discovery of a relationship with
challenging, multiday wilderness hiking up steep New Zealand hills and mountains that I did not know I was capable of.
Standing at the summit of Africa's highest peak, I was reminded that I really could do anything I put my mind to.
That conviction carried me to the famous Milford Track, one of New Zealand's Great Walks, undertaken with my
friend Chad in the stunning Fjordland of the South Island. It was a hike of
quiet awe with brilliant blue skies, glacier-carved peaks, waterfalls cascading
into pools of crystalline water, and the extraordinary birds of Fiordland
calling through the ancient forest. I did not know at the time that I was
carrying kidney cancer inside me. My energy was not what it had been. But the
beauty of that place held me up.
Then came diagnosis, and a reluctant but necessary move back to Canada for cancer treatment that wasn't available for me in New Zealand. My service dog, Blue and I moved in with my elderly mother, saying good-bye to a life we absolutely loved and thrived in. Then came a slower, quieter life, walking the
Klaus Wehrenberg Trail in Sheppard's Bush Conservation Area just five minutes from
my mom's apartment in Aurora, Ontario. With Blue, a now ten-year-old New Zealand Huntaway with brand new knees (he had deteriorating ligament disease in both knees diagnosed shortly after we arrived in Canada), moving just ahead of me through the undergrowth, his nose to the ground and his tail sweeping the air we just walk and breathe, in this moment.
These three walks: Kilimanjaro, the Milford Track, and the Klaus Wehrenberg Trail which are the subject of the journal entries that follow. They span years, continents, and radically different moments in my life. But they share something essential; each one asked me to be present, to use my senses, to surrender to what was there rather than what I feared or wished for. In this, they align with what Garcia and Miralles (2020) describe as shinrin-yoku, the Japanese practice of forest bathing which is an immersive, sensory engagement with the natural environment that research has shown to reduce stress hormones, lower blood pressure, and restore psychological equilibrium. Shinrin-yoku does not require a summit or a trail rating. It requires only attention.
Denis Dutton (2009), in his chapter
"Landscape and Longing," argues that the human response to natural
beauty is not culturally learned but evolutionarily embedded, that we carry an
ancient, aesthetic preference for landscapes that promised our ancestors safety
and sustenance: open ground with scattered trees, proximity to water, elevated
vantage points. Reading his argument, I recognized every trail I have ever
loved. And Gaard (2018) pushes this further, arguing for an ecofeminist
aesthetic of reconnection and the idea that beauty in nature is not something we
observe from a distance but something we belong to, and that healing comes in
part from remembering that belonging.
These journals are written from inside that belonging. They are records of what I heard, smelled, felt, and saw. They are records of a body in motion and a body at rest. Perhaps most preciously, they are records of what nature has given me, again and again, even when I had very little left to offer back.
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Journal Entry One
The Rongai Route, Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania — Six Days

There are no words adequate to the summit climb. I am grateful, in a way I could never have anticipated, that it is pitch black. You cannot see how far you have to go. You cannot see how far you might fall. You can see only the boots of the person directly ahead of you, shuffling upward through the dark.
The altitude does something strange to the
mind. There are moments when I simply stop caring whether I continue or not.
Apathy settles over me like fog, a physiological flattening of the will that
altitude induces. It is, in retrospect, one of the most frightening things I
have ever experienced: to feel indifferent to one's own (and other's) survival. My porter, a
jovial Tanzanian man whose warmth and energy seem impervious to altitude, cold,
and darkness, keeps me moving. He talks to me. He encourages me. He makes me laugh
when laughing seems impossible.
The snow stopped a while ago and we have the most stunning clear sky for the summit. I can hardly speak. My words are slurred with cold, exhaustion and altitude. But I am standing at 5,895 metres above sea level, and say to myself, I DID IT! I found an energy reserve I had no idea I had. I am in a daze. I want to sit down to rest but the air is so thin, I need to move down the mountain to breathe.
Now for the descent... nobody talks about the descent... and I understand why. The scree is treacherous, shifting underfoot like loose gravel on a steep roof. I am so afraid of slipping and breaking my neck that fear temporarily replaces exhaustion. It's a slow, painful (and scary) climb down to Kibo Camp where I can rest my weary legs and feet before continuing the descent down to the last camp and the final night on Kilimanjaro. And in the hours and days that follow, something settles in me that has never quite left: the knowledge that I can endure more than I believe I can. That my body, pushed past every limit it thought it had, sometimes finds something on the other side of that limit. Not triumph, exactly. Something quieter. Gratitude. Astonishment. A deep, cellular sense of being alive, once again reminding myself that I am capable of so much more than I give myself credit for. Why do I continually doubt myself? It's an annoying but endearing quality I must live with.
What was most beautiful? The snow during the
summit climb, falling through my headtorch. The laughter of my porter at four in the
morning on a freezing mountain. The moment the sky began to lighten and Africa
spread out below us, vast and silent and gold.
~ ~ ~
Journal Entry Two
The Milford Track, Fiordland National Park, New Zealand — Five Days
He is easy-going about it. He always has been. I tell myself: just walk and enjoy the scenery... and pray for good weather. The Milford Track is notorious for rain, often non-stop. And I mustn't forget to just breathe.
The birds are extraordinary. The Tui fills the forest with a sound that is part bell, part breath, part something entirely its own, kind of like a liquid, complex call that seems almost too musical to be real. The Kea, the alpine parrot, wheels overhead with a raucous intelligence that is almost comic; Chad stops to watch them, and I hear him laugh from somewhere up the trail. The Kaka moves through the canopy in flashes of rust and olive. And then there is the the small, bold Fantail or Piwakawaka in Maori, who appears and dances around you as you walk, hovering and darting within arm's reach, as if the hike is a game it invented for your joint amusement. The Weka, flightless and determined, appears whenever food comes out of a pack, the rustling of plastic calls to them like Pavlov's dog; it regards you with the frank, calculating gaze of something that has never needed to develop a fear of humans.
The sand flies are a particular challenge. They are relentless and vicious, a reminder that Fiordland's beauty comes without modification for human comfort. We cannot stop for long in any one place without being swarmed. But we find ways: we pull off our boots at the edge of glacial streams and submerge our feet in water so cold it makes you gasp, and the cold clears everything. The clarity of that water is unlike anything I have seen. It is not transparent, it is invisible. The streambed is visible from a metre of depth as if through glass, every pebble precise. The fish appear to be gliding along the river bed as though they are a species from another planet.
What stands out most is colour. Colour that seems calibrated beyond what I thought possible in nature. The sky is a blue so saturated it seems to press down on the mountains. The beeches are a green so deep and particular it almost has weight. And the water, stream and lake and waterfall alike, is a luminous, crystalline blue that seems to generate its own light. Luccarelli (2018) traces the long history of the picturesque, the aesthetic tradition that taught Western eyes to read wild, dramatic landscapes as beautiful rather than threatening. Standing at the top of Mackinnon Pass, looking down into the valley below, I understand that tradition completely. This is the landscape that painting taught us to love, and then revealed was real.
In the evenings at the huts, Chad and I eat
our freeze-dried meals and talk. I am too tired to do more than sit and be
grateful for his company and his quiet competence as he handles the cooking and
the kit without fuss and asks nothing of me except to show up the next
morning. This is a particular kind of friendship, the kind that holds space
without filling it. Everyone needs to experience this kind of kindness, at least once in their life. I feel pretty lucky to have a friend like him on speed dial.
I did not know, on the Milford Track, that I was already sick, carrying a 7cm tumor inside my right kidney. I'd been dealing with uncontrollable blood pressure for many years and faint blood in my urine that the doctors dismissed. My body was telling me something I had not yet learned to hear. But what I remember is not the fatigue. What I remember is the colour of the water, and the Fantail dancing at my shoulder, and the air, clean and cold and still, pouring into me like something I had been missing for years.
~ ~ ~
Journal Entry Three
The Klaus Wehrenberg
Trail, Sheppard's Bush Conservation Area, Aurora, Ontario — Late May
Before I was diagnosed with kidney cancer,
I walked to get somewhere. Then I walked because I loved the grand, demanding
trails that tested me. Now I walk because walking is what I can do, and because
Blue needs it, and because the Klaus Wehrenberg Trail is five minutes from my
front door and somehow, impossibly, given everything, it is enough.
Blue is a New Zealand Huntaway, ten years
old, black and tan and built for moving through country. He walks without his
leash wherever I can, walking ahead by a few metres before stopping to
wait. He always stops to wait. He does not run ahead and disappear; he moves
to a good vantage point, turns back to check my position, and holds there until
I catch up. I have never trained him to do this. It is simply how he is. The leash laws were not as strict in New Zealand as they are here in Canada.
I let him set the pace, which means we stop
frequently. He sniffs with an intensity that suggests each scent is a complete
narrative, telling him the story of who passed here last night, what they ate, how long
ago they stood in this particular spot. While he reads the trail this way, I
look up. Garcia and Miralles (2020) describe this as one of the simplest and
most powerful practices of shinrin-yoku: to slow down until the senses can
actually receive what is there, rather than filtering it into background. Blue has
been teaching me this for years without knowing it.
The birds in late May are extraordinary: a red-winged blackbird making its territorial claim from a branch overhead, the see-sawing two-note call of a black-capped chickadee, the conversational chatter of a house wren somewhere in the undergrowth. A squirrel launches itself from one branch to another with an acrobatic confidence that briefly startles us both. Blue lifts his head, then puts it down again.
Back at the car, I open the hatch and Blue puts his paws up on the bumper waiting for me to give him a boost. He immediately curls up in his bed as I get into the driver's seat. I sit for a moment before starting the engine. Gaard (2018) writes of the ecofeminist aesthetic as one of reconnection, the recognition that the boundary between self and nature is not fixed, that health and beauty are partly a matter of remembering our place within a larger living system.
What was most beautiful? The way the light came through the canopy onto the wet path. The sound of the stream over stones. Blue folding himself into the leaves beside my bench and looking up at me, as if to confirm we are both still here and doing this together.
~ ~ ~
Three walks. Three continents. Three entirely different relationships between my body and the natural world.
On Kilimanjaro the beauty was elemental and
extreme and found in snowfall at 5,895 metres, in the voice of a porter cutting
through altitude-induced apathy, in the astonishing fact of survival. On the
Milford Track, it was sensory and saturated with colour beyond what colour usually
is, water of impossible clarity, birds that seemed to exist purely to make a tramper stop and listen. On the Klaus Wehrenberg Trail, it is quiet, local, and
daily beauty of a familiar path made new each day by the light and
the season and the company of a good dog who waits.
What connects them is presence. Each trail demanded, in its own register that I stop filtering the world through anxiety or ambition and simply receive what was there. This is the core practice of shinrin-yoku as Garcia and Miralles (2020) describe it as an immersive, sensory attention to the natural environment that restores us physiologically and psychologically. It is also what Gaard (2018) means by an ecofeminist aesthetic of reconnection: the healing recognition that we are not separate from the natural world, observing it from a safe remove, but embedded within it, subject to its beauty and its weather alike.
My frame has changed. The epic walks that once defined my relationship with the natural world are, for now, not available to me. Cancer treatment has redrawn the boundaries of what my body can do but the Klaus Wehrenberg Trail is only five minutes away, Blue is always waiting at the door and the red-winged blackbird is staking out his branch in the Canadian canopy. Beauty, it turns out, does not require a summit. It requires only attention, and a willingness to sit on a bench or a log or in the leaves and let the world be exactly what it is.
~ ~ ~
References
DeFrantz, T. F. (2005). African American dance:
Philosophy, aesthetics, and "beauty." Topoi, 24, 93–102.
http://web.mit.edu/bpt/readings/DeFrantzBeauty.pdf
Dutton, D. (2009). The art instinct: Beauty, pleasure,
and human evolution. Bloomsbury Press.
Gaard, G. (2018). Toward an ecofeminist aesthetic of
reconnection. In P. Quigley & S. Slovic (Eds.), Ecocritical aesthetics:
Language, beauty and the environment (pp. 97–). Indiana University Press.
https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&AuthType=ip,sso&db=nlebk&AN=1739048&site=eds-live&custid=s7439054&ebv=EB&ppid=pp_97
Garcia, H., & Miralles, F. (2020). Forest bathing:
The rejuvenating practice of shinrin yoku. Tuttle Publishing.
https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&AuthType=ip,sso&db=nlebk&AN=2371601&site=eds-live&custid=s7439054&ebv=EK&ppid=Page-__-1
Luccarelli, M. (2018). Renaissance aesthetics,
picturesque beauty, the natural landscape: An essay examining the rise and fall
of the impulse toward beauty. In P. Quigley & S. Slovic (Eds.), Ecocritical
aesthetics: Language, beauty and the environment (pp. 77–). Indiana University
Press.
https://search.ebscohost.com/login.aspx?direct=true&AuthType=ip,sso&db=nlebk&AN=1739048&site=eds-live&custid=s7439054&ebv=EB&ppid=pp_77






























